Vancouver

Chinatown: Exotic Cuisine and a Vibrant Culture

Unique features: historic architecture; unique food shops and bakeries; Hong Kong-style cafes and diners; dim sum and other traditional Cantonese cuisine; modern Asian restaurants; diverse independent establishments; cocktail and wine bars
Cultures & influences: Chinese; multicultural; diverse
Ambiance: Chinese Canadian heritage and tradition; community spirit; innovative and ground-breaking; intimate and social; lively cocktail culture


The culinary landscape of Vancouver’s Chinatown is a dynamic meeting of cultural heritage and present-day innovation. As the heart of the Chinese Canadian community, Chinatown contains many long-time shops and restaurants that are beloved for their unique food offerings. The neighbourhood is currently undergoing an exciting revival as new establishments open, many of them representing the next generation of Chinese Canadian restaurateurs.

Chinatown map

Chinatown, bounded roughly by Taylor Street and Gore Avenue from west to east and Georgia Street and Hastings Street from south to north, was designated a National Historic Site of Canada in 2011. It’s the largest historical Chinatown in Canada and the third largest in North America. The neighbourhood emerged as an ethnic enclave in the 1880s as Chinese residents began congregating on Carrall Street and what was Dupont (Pender) Street. Chinese association buildings, theatres, and schools subsequently opened to serve the expanding community.

After restrictive entry policies caused a decline, the area moved into its Boom Years following the repeal of the Chinese Immigration Act in 1947. Chinatown became a thriving residential and commercial space, with visitors drawn to its neon signs and lively restaurants and nightclubs. “Lots of people were coming to Chinatown. There was interesting entertainment. It was the place to be,” says Carol Lee, co-founder and chair of the Chinatown Foundation, a charity devoted to the area’s revitalization.

Since 2010, various community and municipal groups have been actively involved in bringing new life to Chinatown. In addition to preserving its historic character, efforts have centred on supporting existing businesses as well as attracting additional ones. Today, Chinatown is populated by independent restaurateurs who offer some of the best food and drink in the city.

Chinatown

What Makes Chinatown Unique as a Dining and Drinking Destination

Food has always figured prominently in Chinatown. “The Chinese culture so much revolves around food,” says Lee. She explains that, in the early days of Chinatown, restaurants were a fundamental way of creating community around large round tables. And this connection between food and togetherness continues to the present day.

Lee owns Chinatown BBQ, devoted to affordable Chinese cuisine, and is in the process of relaunching the iconic Ho Ho Restaurant. In addition to Lee’s establishments, the neighbourhood features a wide range of stores selling everything from Chinese baked goods to frozen dumplings. Small diners and cafes, such as Maxim’s Bakery and Restaurant and New Town Bakery and Restaurant, lend themselves to a quick bite in between browsing the area’s many shops. Other establishments, such as Jade Dynasty Restaurant and Floata Seafood Restaurant, are ideal spots for enjoying dim sum and other Cantonese favourites.

Floata Chinese Restaurant
Floata Seafood Restaurant

Part of the revitalization of Chinatown involves younger Asian Canadian restaurateurs building on the legacy of previous generations. One example is Kosoo Pocha at Sai Woo, Korean Izakaya that preserves the traditions of Chinatown-staple, Sai Woo. Despite changes over the decades, Kosoo Pocha at Sai Woo retains some of the location’s original signage and paintings. Other restaurants, such as Bao Bei, specialize in innovative updates on classic Asian dishes.

While Chinatown is steeped in tradition, it very much evidences diversity and creativity in its dining scene. “It feels like a place where people are willing to take risks. I think that’s a part of the culture and the DNA of this neighbourhood,” says Lee. Kissa Tanto, for instance, melds Japanese and Italian cuisine in playfully novel ways.

Sai Woo
Kosoo Pocha at Sai Woo

Meanwhile, Giovanni Mascagni, owner of Fiorino, opened his homage to Italian street food in Chinatown because he fell in love with the area when he moved to Vancouver. “It was very vibrant, fun, and had a little bit of history,” he says, adding, “Chinatown has always had great bars, great restaurants, and amazing food.”

Mascagni particularly likes the diversity and close ties among Chinatown restaurateurs. “We all bring something different to the community. It’s very authentic. Everyone is doing something they really believe in and are confident in. It’s so refreshing,” he says. Food options in Chinatown include Vietnamese-Cambodian comfort food, vegan dishes with international flavours, ramen, and fried chicken.

Both Mascagni and Swanson rave about the cocktail scene in Chinatown. Places such as The Keefer Bar, The Chickadee Room in Juke, and Laowai craft phenomenal drinks, many using ingredients, such as salted Asian pear, that pay tribute to Chinatown. Peter Van de Reep, bar manager at Bar Gobo, a natural wine bar with a farm-to-table ethos, raves about the artistry of the restaurants and drinking establishments. “It has always been a neighbourhood full of nightlife. It just shifts over the years. Now, we have some of the best chefs, bartenders, and restaurateurs opening up their own spots that can show off their own particular brand of hospitality,” he says.

Bar Gobo
Bar Gobo

Van de Reep feels that Chinatown is one of Vancouver’s most compelling food neighbourhoods. He says, “Where else can you get amazing steamed buns, terrific sandwiches, noodles and dumplings of all kinds, and then wind up at the best wine or cocktail bars in the city, all within a few square blocks?” Truly, Chinatown is an exciting combination of tradition and novelty.

Events in Chinatown to Put on Your Calendar

The community spirit in Chinatown makes events particularly special. Light up Chinatown!, which takes place in September around the Mid-Autumn Festival, is a joyous celebration of the area. The festival encourages everyone to come to Chinatown to (re)discover its restaurants, merchants, and cultural heritage. Chinatown is illuminated with lanterns and lights during this family-friendly event, which features live performances, a DJ-led dance party, food trucks, specials at nearby restaurants, and culinary walking tours. There’s even a Kids’ Zone where children can take part in various crafts and activities.

Light Up Chinatown
Light Up Chinatown

Taste of Chinatown is an annual event that celebrates the culinary delights of the neighbourhood. While it takes a different form every year, in the past, it has involved food collaborations, featured items at participating restaurants, self-guided culinary tours, and special gala events. The Chinatown Foundation also holds an autumn gala evening to raise money for their many projects, particularly affording housing and revitalization of Chinatown.

In the summer, the Vancouver Chinatown Festival welcomes everyone to the neighbourhood. The festival entails all sorts of performances (e.g., kung fu demos), food trucks, a market for artisan goods, a kids’ zone with games and arts and crafts, and even a giant mahjong set. Salsa dancing and a family movie night add to the lively mix of activities.

Finally, there are all sorts of food tours of Chinatown, including A Wok Around Chinatown as well as Historical Chinatown Tours by Judy Lam Maxwell. The tours have a food component, showcasing local merchants as well as including a delicious dim sum meal. Dumpling lessons are also available.

Chinatown’s proud history as a food-centric neighbourhood clearly continues vibrantly today.

 

 

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